Antigua Guatemala, Lake Atitlán, and Petén
Caravaner's Companion: a guide to sumptuous weavings, lakeside hotels, and pizza baked with lava
Welcome to Caravaner’s Companion, a column of travel tales & recs from your chronically-traveling, donut-obsessed, over-caffeinated bestie. You’ll find digs, nosh, and retail therapy recs, the all-important vibe check, and the question on every traveler’s mind: “Is this a donut destination?” Released in batches of three each season, upgrade to get these novice-friendly, down-to-earth (and around-the-earth) travel companions.
If I’m honest, Guatemala was never high on my list of places to visit. It was my sister-in-law who drew me there. Years ago, she took out her savings and retired early to a little homestead she and her husband built in the rainforest (read about it here). Nick and I had heard much about Guatemala on FaceTime calls; my sister-in-law was always talking about things like collecting rainwater, tending chickens, and schlepping down the hill from her home to the road so she could shop from a vegetable truck. Her experience was so far outside our own that Nick and I couldn’t really understand the draw…and yet, we were dying to see it for ourselves. So we bit the bullet, got on an arduous three-leg flight from Cairo, and headed to Central America for two and a half weeks.
As soon as we landed, we could see what the attraction was. Guatemala is beautifully green, and it boasts a laid-back, welcoming culture. I can’t even count the number of times Nick and I turned to each other saying, “wow, the people here are just. So. Nice.” Guatemalans may be poor on average, but they are exceptionally honest and giving. I am not just saying this. I have been a lot of places, and of everywhere I’ve been, Guatemala was the friendliest. Nick and I received incredible hospitality from my sister-in-law’s friends, and we were treated with unfailing kindness by everyone whose path we crossed. (And not only are Guatemalans approachable, their Spanish is slow and clear, making it a wonderful place to practice the language. People will be patient with you while you do!)
We covered a lot of ground in Guatemala, splitting our time between Antigua, Lake Atitlán, and the forest of Petén, yet still I feel that we only scratched the surface. While a trip to Guatemala leans more toward adventure than relaxation (the whole point of coming here is to hike active volcanoes, get out in nature, and wander through sprawling Mayan temple complexes), it is the essence of slow travel. This is partially because the infrastructure is poor; rushing is of little use when the one-lane country roads don’t allow you to go more than 30 miles per hour, or when a Catholic festival floods the city streets. Things in Guatemala simply take as long as they take—but there is something freeing about letting go of your to-the-hour itinerary. So take your time to enjoy the cozy cities, the sunsets over tranquil lakes, and the murmur of the rainforest. You’ll be back to the grind soon enough.