The Best Afternoon Stroll in Cairo
Caravaner's Companion: a guide to the island neighborhood of Zamalek
Welcome to Caravaner’s Companion, a column of travel tales & recs from your chronically-traveling, donut-obsessed, over-caffeinated bestie. You’ll find digs, nosh, and retail therapy recs, the all-important vibe check, and the question on every traveler's mind: “Is this a donut destination?” Released in batches of three each season, upgrade to get these novice-friendly, down-to-earth (and around-the-earth) travel companions.
I confess, I miss Cairo more than I ever thought I could. I miss the frenetic energy of the city, the world-class tourist sites, the coffee shops in sprawling villas, the hibiscus juice that was always sweetened just right. But I miss it most of all in spring. The weather is mild in Egypt this time of year, and the blooming flame trees turn entire city blocks a vibrant shade of crimson. That makes it the absolute best time to take a walk around town, and lately I find myself daydreaming about an afternoon stroll in Zamalek, the island neighborhood just across the river from downtown.
Now, in my big guide to Cairo, I said that Cairo isn’t really a walkable city—perhaps with the exception of Zamalek. I stand by that statement, and would go so far as to say that a day spent wandering in Zamalek can be extremely pleasant if you have an idea of where to go. It has some of the absolute best shopping in Egypt, as well as green spaces, great restaurants, grand colonial-era architecture, and pretty Nile views. Driving up to Zamalek to get lost in the boutiques and sip lemon mints by the river was my favorite way to spend a day when we lived in Cairo, and in this post, I am giving you all my best spots.
There are plenty of fantastic guides to touring Egypt already out there, so my goal here is to give you the scoop on the places that are beloved by locals. Some of them are “hidden gems,” some are well-known; they’re all worth checking out. Zamalek isn’t on the typical tourist circuit, but if you want to get a window into what Cairo was like in its heyday—as well as the best of what the modern city has to offer—an afternoon here is a great way to do it.