Lisbon and the Algarve
Caravaner's Companion: a guide to cute cable cars, yummy pastries, and unparalleled shopping
Welcome, friends! This is Caravaner’s Companion, a column of travel tales & recs from your chronically-traveling, donut-obsessed, over-caffeinated bestie. You’ll find digs, nosh, and retail therapy recs, the all-important vibe check, and the question on every traveler's mind: “Is this a donut destination?” Released in batches of three each season, upgrade to get these novice-friendly, down-to-earth (and around-the-earth) travel companions.
There was a cultural moment a couple years back when Portugal was the vacation spot du jour, and it felt like everyone and their brother was going. I tend to scoff at such trendy destinations, because (cards on the table here) I can be a bit of a travel snob. For me, Portugal was a utilitarian choice. Nick and I had shortlisted it as a honeymoon destination before covid brought the travel industry to a standstill, wanting somewhere we could fly direct and get around with minimal fuss post-wedding planning frenzy. We finally made good on our plans last winter, more than two and a half years into our marriage. As we took off for a week in Lisbon and the Algarve, I was quietly skeptical; I worried it would feel played out and lackluster.
Now, I pride myself on my willingness to admit when I’m wrong, and I have to say: shame on me for my pretentiousness, because I ended up loving every second! Portugal is well-traveled for a reason—it is still relatively inexpensive when compared with other European destinations, it has a fantastic food scene, and travel within country is easy. Lisbon’s flair for design rivals that of Paris and Barcelona, a blend of art nouveau architecture, gothic ruins, and azulejo-covered façades (and the rickety yellow cable cars that scale the hills of Alfama add an extra charm). And the Algarve? Some of the most dramatically beautiful coastline I’ve ever seen.
But the most pleasant surprise was the sense of possibility I felt while gazing out at the vastness of the Atlantic and breathing in the salt air. It was easy to imagine myself in the place of the early explorers as they prepared to sail their caravels over the edge of the world and into the unknown, where untold adventures awaited.