hello, wanderer!
I’m an American living in Amman, Jordan with my diplomat husband, Nick, and our rescue dog, Boo. While I’ve traveled to over 30 countries, I’m an outsider here: not Jordanian, not Arab, not Muslim. I’m also an expert in security and foreign policy, which makes me something of an enigma among typical ‘trailing spouses.’
Which brings us here, to Caravanserai. This newsletter is as full of worldly perspectives (like why you shouldn’t travel like a local) as it is relatable millennial woes (currently attempting to excuse myself from late-stage capitalism). It’s for the thinkers, daydreamers, and adventurers—anyone who craves stories that broaden your perspective, give you hope for humanity, and offer a kinship with different cultures.
Basically, if Anthony Bourdain and Joanna Goddard had a baby and that baby grew up to write a newsletter, it would be Caravanserai.
Free subscribers will receive nuanced commentary and personal stories on everything from decolonizing your travel mindset, whether or not I cover my hair, that time I accidentally shipped literal garbage from Cairo to Amman, and saying goodbye to Cairo, my last home. You’ll also get interviews with fellow expats, immigrants, and ramblers, like Gillian Longworth McGuire and M. E. Rothwell. Expect these 2-4 times a month.
Paid subscribers will gain access to soulful, life-affirming conversations held through the lens of travel, exploration, and discovery. These will include: mini-guides for living a net-positive life, recommendation-packed travel guides, and personal explorations of my life as an outsider in the Middle East, a diplomatic spouse, and an avid traveler. Expect a new post every week.
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a bit more about me
Writing is my life’s work, but travel is my passion. I’ve lived in the Middle East for three years—first in Egypt, now in Jordan—as the spouse of a diplomat after spending my early career in Washington, D.C. Being based outside the U.S. gives me plenty of opportunities to travel and explore new places; those experiences always make me think, and I love sharing them with you. Expat life also presents unique challenges, which I reflect on frequently in this newsletter.
When I’m not hustling through airports or willing words to appear on the page, you’ll find me knitting on the couch, squinting at the lemons in my garden to see if they’ve grown since yesterday, or (most likely) sipping an unreasonably large cappuccino in a local café.
…what the heck is a “caravanserai”??
A caravanserai (pronounced “care-uh-VAN-sur-eye”) is a type of roadside inn, historically found along the Silk Road in its heyday. Caravanserais served as respites where trade caravans and other travelers could stop to rest overnight, away from the dangers of the road. While the outer walls of caravanserais resembled fortresses, the insides were much cozier, with small guest rooms, stables, and sometimes even prayer rooms and bath houses. As travelers from all over Eurasia flocked to caravanserais, they became hubs for the exchange of culture, goods, food, religion, art, and, of course, stories.
When you read this newsletter, I want you to feel as though you are stepping into a caravanserai—a haven where you can listen to fellow travelers’ stories from the road and sample bits of far away places.
Samantha, I saw this in The New Yorker about Jordan and thought of you. https://www.newyorker.com/news/letter-from-jordan/the-other-side-of-the-river